Dita Von Teese: Accidental Ecoista
December 20 2009
Vanity Fair called her a “Burlesque Superheroine” for appearances on international stages in which she strips down to pasties in an oversized martini glass or on a nine-foot mechanical lipstick “bull.” She writes books on burlesque (see below for the latest). But Dita Von Teese is known as much for her vintage looks off-stage as her lack of clothing on it.
Yes, she still wears vintage fur and no, we’re not thrilled with that. In retrospect, we should have suggested donating those old coats to Coats for Cubs, an arm of the Humane Society that donates them to orphaned animals, rather than wearing them and, in so doing, condoning fur. But, in general, this performer has done more to promote retro fashion than any other style icon in history, with designers like Christian Dior, John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier crediting her with inspiring their return to retro glamour, and manufacturers like Wonderbra turning to her to create an eponymous vintage-inspired, limited edition lingerie collection.
Earlier this year and just back from Paris, where she was the first ever guest star at the famed Crazy Horse theatre, Dita took a break from planning two new burlesque shows—“Opium Den” and “Rhinestone Cowgirl”—as well as a striptease “flip-book” shot by famed photographer Sheryl Nields, to talk with EcoStiletto about how she became an Ambassador of Vintage—and what we like to call an Accidental Ecoista.
EcoStiletto: You’ve topped Best Dressed list while wearing clothes from decades past. When did you first discover vintage fashion? How did vintage inspire you to create your signature style?
Dita Von Teese: I started buying vintage originally because I couldn’t afford the kinds of designer clothes that appealed to me, and I saw that many of the designers I liked best were referencing the 1930s, 40s and 50s. So for instance I would see a Vivienne Westwood suit in a magazine, and then I would buy a 1940’s suit and have it tailored to my corseted waist and padded hips. I always felt like a very ordinary looking girl, and I found that dressing in a unique way made me feel less ordinary and more glamorous.
I also used clothes as a way to counteract my extreme shyness when I was younger. I wore a lot of extravagant vintage hats, which can make people somewhat intimidated. I think people will only approach if they have something very, very interesting to say to the girl in the outrageous hat!
I love vintage clothes because they seem to make extravagance less costly to obtain, and I like to imagine the story behind each piece. Who wore it, where did she wear it, and who did she meet? Was it her favorite hat? Did she save up for it? I love the mystery of vintage clothes.
ES: Reducing your consumption by reusing vintage clothing is an easy way to “green up” your closet. Did you think about this when you first started wearing vintage?
DVT: I have to admit that I never thought of that, but it’s an excellent point! I was just trying to get glamorous and to be chic on a very tight budget.
ES: Is being eco-friendly something you consider now, when you consider wearing vintage?
DVT: I honestly can’t say that I do, because my love for vintage comes from a genuine love of glamour that isn’t based in common sense in any way. I definitely don’t dress for practicality, I must admit. But I’m happy to hear that other people might be discovering the joy of wearing vintage for that reason too.
ES: You’re credited with re-introducing vintage glamour into contemporary fashion. Was that a conscious choice or were you simply wearing what spoke to you—and fashion followed?
DVT: I was just wearing what I liked. In fact, a couple of years ago, Vogue was proclaiming how “of-the-moment” I was, and I was thinking that’s nice and all, but I’m sure I will be totally “out” eventually too! I don’t care, because style is more enduring than fashion. I wear what suits me, and what I like, and that hasn’t changed for me in 20 years. Even the fashion critics and trendsetters know better than to truly follow fashion, they find their own personal style and stick to it, all the while dictating in the magazines to women about what they need to buy, keep and lose every season. They don’t follow their own advice, you know.
ES: So many women have been inspired by your glamorous, iconic style. Who has inspired you?
DVT: I’m inspired by eccentrics and glamorous women who are self-created, like Anna Piaggi, Erin O’Connor, Lisa Fonssagrives, Suzanne Von Aichinger, The Marchesa Casati, Diana Vreeland, Marlene Dietrich… icons that have distinctive “screw you if you don’t like it” looks! Great style icons aren’t afraid of being the subject of a little ridicule here and there. I love it! And I am impressed with Lady Gaga right now. She is proving to be a really eccentric dresser.
There is so much to yawn at in Hollywood, all safe styling on the red carpet. That’s not the way it always was. I’m tired of seeing every young actress trying to be a “modern Grace Kelly.” When I watch an awards show, I can hear the sound of every young actress whining to her styling team about wanting to be “a modern Grace Kelly.” It’s probably the most commonly heard phrase in Hollywood, I think.
ES: If you could have an entire wardrobe created by one designer—living or dead—who would you choose?
DVT: That’s not an easy choice. I suppose John Galliano would be the best overall choice for me, because he loves to reference and reinvent vintage Dior and all that coquettish 1930’s style, and he does it in a way that isn’t just copying, it’s reinvented, refined, and taken to the extreme. Plus he has a fantastic sense of humor, so it would be fun to spend time with him!
